Hyaluronic acid: why it is really effective as an injection, but not as a cream

Injections penetrate derm, cosmetics only hydrate the skin surface

Creams, serums, masks, capsules, injections… Hyaluronic acid (HA) is everywhere. Touted as the miracle anti-wrinkle molecule, it promises hydration, bounce, and eternal youth. But not all hyaluronic acids are created equal: those injected work deep down , while those applied to the skin have a much more superficial effect . Let's see why.

Hyaluronic acid, an active ingredient naturally present in the skin

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally produced by the body , especially in the skin, eyes and joints. It acts like a water sponge , capable of retaining up to 1,000 times its weight in water , thus ensuring hydration and skin volume. With age, its production decreases, which leads to dehydration, loss of firmness and the appearance of wrinkles .

Why hyaluronic acid injections are effective

During an injection , hyaluronic acid is deposited directly into the dermis or hypodermis, where it can:

• fill hollows (furrows, cheeks, lips);

• attract and retain water to plump the skin from within;

• indirectly stimulate collagen production (mechanical tension effect).

The effects are visible immediately and last 6 to 18 months , depending on the density of the injected gel and the area treated.

In short: the effectiveness of injections relies on the depth of action —where creams cannot reach.

Why hyaluronic acid creams don't work deep down

The skin barrier is the main obstacle. The epidermis is designed to prevent large molecules from penetrating . However, the hyaluronic acid molecule is very large (high molecular weight):

• it remains on the surface , forming a moisturizing film,

• it does not cross the stratum corneum (horny layer).

Some formulas use fragmented hyaluronic acids (low molecular weight), which are able to penetrate better , but:

• their effect remains limited to the superficial layers ,

• and they can sometimes irritate sensitive skin.

Result: the creams temporarily hydrate the surface , without “plumping” the skin from the inside like injections do.

Marketing promises: between science and illusion

Brands often play on the confusion between forms of hyaluronic acid :

• The consumer hears “hyaluronic acid”, thinks “injection”,

• But the product contains a non-injectable cosmetic version, with superficial moisturizing power.

Although some studies show temporary improved skin hydration , no cream has proven a lasting effect on wrinkle depth. The “plumped skin” effect of a serum is often linked to the film-forming texture , not to a structural transformation of the dermis.

Effective alternatives and combinations

To stimulate the skin without injection, certain strategies can complement topical hyaluronic acid:

• Vitamin C : antioxidant and collagen stimulant;

• Retinol (vitamin A) : boosts the production of collagen and elastin;

• Niacinamide : strengthens the skin barrier and improves texture;

• Peptides : signal the skin to regenerate.

In short, topical hyaluronic acid hydrates , but does not correct structural wrinkles. It works best in synergy with other anti-aging actives.

Conclusion

Hyaluronic acid is a fantastic molecule... provided you understand how it works .

• In injection: direct and visible action .

• In cosmetics: possibly superficial hydration .

  The two are not opposed: they complement each other. But believing that an anti-wrinkle cream “fills wrinkles” like an injection is giving in to a marketing illusion. True effectiveness comes from science, not just texture .

Have you ever tried cosmetics based on hyaluronic acid?

• I tried such cosmetics and noticed an improvement in my skin
• I tried such cosmetics and didn't notice any improvement
• I haven't tried such cosmetics

And have you ever tried hyaluronic acid injections?

• I tried injections and I was satisfied with the results
• I tried injections and I wasn't satisfied with the results
• I have never tried such injections